Fight voles fight with the SuperCat vole trap

The most effective way to catch voles!

Our vole trap has many outstanding advantages:

Simple single-action sets the trap in seconds: pull the handle out to its limit and the trap is set. Supersedes the complicated spring arrangements that are found in other traps.
Requires no great strength to operate, unlike other traps which need above-average strength to stretch their springs. Fits neatly into a 6-cm diameter hole; it does not need the extensive excavations that other traps require.
Gives a clear above-ground visual signal when the trap has been activated: the handle drops back into the trap.
Other traps require digging up to reveal whether they have made a catch.
Catches voles and fieldmice in both directions.
Not hazardous to users and pets.

Fight voles without bait

When set up for action, the SuperCat vole trap integrates into the vole's tunnel network and needs no lure to be effective. There is a sensitive trigger in the trap and when the vole nudges it, the trap slams shut with great force and kills the vole instantly with a powerful blow.

It is very easy to introduce the trap into the tunnel system and there it will trap voles in both directions. It is efficient, effective, safe and environmentally friendly.

Guaranteed solution for voles in the garden

Voles can be found in many gardens, parks, meadows, fields and farmlands where they dig extensive, disruptive burrows and eat valuable vegetables and food crops. Our SuperCat vole trap helps bring such plagues to a quick and complete end.

SWISSINNO employs its many years of experience in pest control to produce the most efficient and effective traps. One such is the SuperCat vole trap, which is designed perfectly for its purpose and function.

How to use Vole Trap PRO SuperCat

1. A vole trap accessory set is available separately and comprises a tunnel locating probe and a 6 cm hole cutter.

2. To find a tunnel work along a line between two earth-mounds and/or visible tunnel openings as it is likely that a connecting tunnel is there. Push the probe into the ground in many spots and when the probe suddenly slips into the ground very easily you will have located a tunnel. Ideally, the trap should be positioned where the tunnel is straight and level. So check whether your located spot is ideal by probing ahead of it and behind it akong the like of the connecting tunnel.

Vole Trap PRO SuperCat Tunnel locating probe

3. Using the 6 cm hole cutter with a twisting action, cut a neat vertical hole down into the tunnel plus an extra 2 cm down into the floor of the tunnel. Carefully lift out any loose soil from the tunnel, or push it flat into the tunnel floor.

4. Insert the trap into the hole and carefully pull the sprung handle up as far as it will go. It will lock in this position. Make sure the trap openings run in the same direction as the tunnel.

5. Scatter loose leaves or grass round the trap to block out draughts and light. The trap is now set up for action. Check the trap next day at the latest. You will often make a catch in only a few hours.

Accessory set (tunnel location probe and hole digger) is separately available.

1. A vole trap accessory set is available separately and comprises a tunnel locating probe and a 6 cm hole cutter.

4. Insert the trap into the hole and carefully pull the sprung handle up as far as it will go. It will lock in this position. Make sure the trap openings run in the same direction as the tunnel.

Accessory set (tunnel location probe and hole digger) is separately available.

Professional accessory set for optimal use of the Vole Trap PRO SuperCat

25 cm long locating probe in steel.

Hole digger cutting tool for 6 cm diameter hole made of reenforced plastic.

Here are some of the most frequently asked questions

What damage do voles cause?

Voles are the enemies of plant life. They consume the underground parts of trees, bushes, vegetables, flowers and grass. Plant roots, tubers and bulbs are all targets for these voracious pests. Voles can destroy entire harvests both by disturbing the plants with their burrowing and by devouring the plants' roots.
Paths, walkways and pavements can collapse when undermined by vole burrows.
When digging their burrows voles throw up mounds of earth that disfigure garden flower beds and lawns, that ravage meadows and parkland and that destroy playing fields and sports grounds and that, moreover, make mowing impossible.
Vole burrowing can also cause severe soil erosion and landslips on slopes, embankments and hillsides with the consequent risk of flooding.
Voles carry and can pass on to humans a number of parasites and diseases. Fleas, ticks, mites, lice and tapeworms are commonly present. Also to be found are fox tapeworm (Echinococcus multilocularis), rabies and hantavirus, all lethal diseases and many other zoonoses (diseases and infections that are naturally transmitted between vertebrate animals and humans).

How do you recognise vole infestations?

Plants wither, fall over or can be pulled out easily due to damage below ground. Usually you will find mounds of dug-up earth in the area and along the routes of the burrows there will often be small, elongated heaps.
Vole burrows are oval, 3-5 cm wide, clean, neat and tidy and devoid of plant roots. The burrow network extends over about 100sqm with a total tunnel length of 50-100m.
The tunnels are normally closed off.
Exits and entrances are often visible on the slightly raised, 5cm wide, zigzagging trails on the ground surface that connect burrow openings.

How many voles occupy a vole domain?

Voles are 'loners' and from October to April a single vole will occupy the tunnel network.
During the mating season, however, from April to October, 2 adult parents and up to 6 offspring may populate the network.
After catching a vole with a SWISSINNO vole trap, set up the trap repeatedly again and agan in the same place until no more voles are caught and the trap has not been 'triggered'.
To be sure, leave the hole open for one more day. If then there are no signs of digging or soil disturbance, there are most probably no more voles at this spot and you may move the trap to a different location.

How many traps do you need in a garden?

It depends on the local circumstances and the severity of the infestation, but for a normal domestic garden of about 200-500 square meters, 2 to 4 traps should be enough.

How can you tell the difference between a mole and a vole?

Voles, field mice, and moles often appear simultaneously in the garden.
Moles and voles can easily be distinguished from the typical heaps and passages relative to each animal.

	Vole	Mole
Earth mound	Flat irregular. Usually penetrated by grass or roots. 2-3 large mounds and several small mounds. Sideways passage. Crumbly material is removed with the mouth or scraped.	High and round, only earth and stones. Lots of fairly uniform mounds at regular intervals. Passage goes from the middle downwards.

Tunnels	High oval, large (3 fingers high) gnawed No roots in the tunnel. Running close under the turf	Cross oval, small (2 fingers wide). Scratched or pressed. Roots hang in the tunnel Different depths

How long does a single catch take?

If one day after setting a trap it has not been 'triggered', there are probably no voles at that spot and you should move the trap to a different location.

Caring for traps

Traps should be washed with hot water only. Never use soap, detergents or cleaning products. Traps should never be oiled, even with odourless oils. Oil may prevent traps from functioning properly.

Alien odours on a trap?

Voles and field mice have acute senses of smell and shy away from unfamiliar smells.
New traps can be cleansed of 'foreign' odours by burying them in garden soil for a few days before use. Traps that are in use should be washed frequently in hot water. When working with traps, first wash your hands in warm water. Do not use soap when washing traps or hands and do not wear any perfumed skin-care products.
When handling a trap, hold only its handle or upper part; do not touch its lower parts or its percussion cylinder. Wear gloves when making contact with the trap and with the soil where you are placing the trap to avoid contamination by transferring offensive odours and for 'sound hygiene' practice, too.
Traps should be stored in odour-free places, a well-ventilated shed, for example. A motor car lock-up, where fuel, exhaust and engine fumes are present, is not suitable.

The access portals of the vole trap are clogged with soil. Why?

Probably a mole in the tunnel has encountered your trap and, because it sees it as an unwelcome intruder, it blocks it up with soil.

Also voles can stuff soil into the trap. But then not as tightly clogged as the mole. In this case, rinse the trap with water and refill after a few days. It can help 15cm in front of and behind the trap to open the aisle with the hole cutter. The additional openings divert the vole from the trap.

Another trick is not only to set the traps, but at the same time to damage the rest of the tunnel system as much as possible. Kick down all piles of earth and damage lower gears with the search bar. This massive disruption can also distract from the trap. If all that does not help, experienced trappers sometimes change the trap if it does not work with this model.

Are voles and field mice carriers of disease that infect humans and animals?

Voles carry and can pass on to humans a number of parasites and diseases. Fleas, ticks, mites, lice and tapeworms are commonly present. Also to be found are fox tapeworm (Echinococcus multilocularis), rabies and hantavirus, all lethal diseases, and many other zoonoses (diseases and infections that are naturally transmitted between vertebrate animals and humans).
For this reason, gloves should always be worn when setting traps and hands and arms should be thoroughly washed after work.

How do tunnels for voles or field mice work?

Burrowing and field mouse construction — A. Tunnel network
B. Pantry
C. Living area
D. 10-20cm below the ground
E. Approx. 50cm below ground

VOLE TRAP PRO SUPERCAT